Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Culture. Show all posts

Monday, July 13, 2009

Cooking from the Heart

A wonderful audio excerpt from National Public Radio's The Splendid Table (June 11, 2009) about Hmong traditional cuisine with the authors of Cooking from the Heart: the Hmong Kitchen in America, Sami Scripter and Sheng Yang. Includes interesting history about the Hmong people during the Vietnam War.

This is the first cookbook to clearly set out the culinary traditions of the Hmong people as well as the significance such traditions hold, which have always been passed on through the oral tradition.

Recipes

Book's Blog

Sunday, July 12, 2009

The White House - Memorandum regarding Laos

The White House - Press Office - Memorandums from the President regarding Cambodia and Laos:

THE WHITE HOUSE

Office of the Press Secretary
__________________________________________________________________
For Immediate Release June 12, 2009

June 12, 2009

Presidential Determination
No. 2009-21

MEMORANDUM FOR THE SECRETARY OF STATE

SUBJECT: Presidential Determination for The Lao People's Democratic Republic Under Section 2(b)(2) of the Export-Import Bank Act of 1945, as amended

Pursuant to the authority vested in me by section 2(b)(C) of the Export-Import Bank Act of 1945, as amended (12 U.S.C. 635(b)(2)(C)), I hereby determine that The Lao People's Democratic Republic has ceased to be a Marxist-Leninist country within the definition of such term in section 2(b)(2)(B)(i) of that Act.

You are authorized and directed to publish this determination in the Federal Register.

BARACK OBAMA

Friday, January 2, 2009

Happy New Year, Hmong Style!

Hmong New Year lasts for a month or more since villages celebrate at different times, perhaps having to do with timing of the harvest season. This week is the grand festival at Kilometer 52, a conglomerate of Lao and Hmong villages around the 52nd kilometer marker on Route 13 north of Vientiane Capital.

For the week, I was one more daughter in Pee's parents' household -- usually a large family of 15 , but expanded to about 30 or 40 (or more?) during the course of the week. The doors were wide open, ensuring new faces and new friends to be made each day.

The week kicked off ceremoniously with a family group ceremony to usher in good and rid the bad spirits on the day Pee and I arrived. The next day was the cow slaughter that was very much an all-day family affair. The two eldest sons bought the cow (about $175) for the family as an offering for the mother's health (she had had surgery earlier in the year) and for the health and safety of several traveling family members from the U.S.

Cow and Family


I'm not from a large family, so the idea of activity and noise all the time and no privacy at any time was new to me. But everyone was so welcoming, social, and talkative. Maybe that's part of the territory of a large family. Even though we couldn't speak the same linguistic language, some forms of communication are universal -- like laughter and babies.

Family Life


A Few Hmong New Year Traditions


The Kilometer 52 Hmong New Year festival host rotates each year to one of the nearby villages. This year, the hosting village was right across the street, so it was a short walk from the house, ensuring about 2-3 visits to the fair every day!

The kids of course were interested in rides and games, but the most important tradition, followed by both young and old, is the pov pob, the courtship game played between men and women, boys and girls, by throwing a ball to one another while singing love songs.

Traditional Hmong Dress and Pov Pob at the Festival
(I got to wear three different costumes!)


The young folks don't really sing songs these days, but there were some fine specimens among the older folks. The language used is poetic and figurative, so even the young Hmong can't understand the songs. But from what I could tell, when a man and woman were interested in one another, the songs were woven into a kind of discourse to learn about each others' families and backgrounds.

Pov Pob Song (with me playing wingman!)


Bull fighting is another popular event during Hmong New Year, mostly with the men. I can see the thrill of it...kind of like a potential running of the bulls in a dried out rice paddy.

Some Running with the Bulls
(Don't worry, I was safely on a hill behind a barbed wire fence!)


A Bit of Bull Fighting


I spent a lot of time with the kids of the family, and I took a particular liking to Ten (age 10) and Yer (age 12). Ten and I got good at the bumper cars together (the funnest dollar I've ever spent), and I helped Yer take care of the guppies every day.




This morning when Pee and I were packing to head back to Vientiane, he reminded me to not leave anything behind. And he said,
Pee: Don't forget your hat.
Me: That's not my hat (pointing to one near my bag).
Pee: Don't forget your HAT.
Me: (Confused)
Pee: Don't forget your HAT (with his hand on his chest).
Me: Oh, my HEART!
When I was picking up the last of my things, I understood what he meant. I had printed out photos off my camera for the family using a photo printer the American uncle had brought. I gave the one of of me and the boys at the festival to Ten, and he had already put it up on the cabinet next to the photo of their sister.

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Happy Turkey Day!

Maybe not so surprisingly, I had a more "American" Thanksgiving here in Laos than I often have back at home in the U.S. Ambassador and Mrs. Huso had a quaint dinner party for about 40-50 on their spacious front patio. Guests were mainly folks who work at the embassy and also a group of old friends and visitors from the Husos' native Hawaii.

The ambassador's residence, like most official residences here, is set in the French colonial style. Since it was my first time really spending time within an American presence abroad, I had never heard of the ART in Embassies Program. The new ambassador starting his/her tenure may choose from a collection of American art to exhibit in the residence to share a bit of American culture with guests. The Husos' collection features all Hawaiian artists.

Here is the painting Luana (Giclee print) by Pegge Hopper flanked by Pair of Whiskey Jugs (glass) by Mark Mitsuda who was the Husos' daughter's art teacher.

We had turkey and all the trimmings, plus sweet hibiscus tea. Dave was my +1, and I guess like attracts like because our dinner table became the "health" table with, among the Hawaiian visitors, a Japanese-American pediatrician, a Vietnamese-American biochemist/public health person who leads medical missions to Southeast Asia, and a fellow who had worked with the Hawaii health department.

The Hawaiian visitors were all en-route from the East-West Center alumni function in Bali, but got stranded here because the Thailand airport closed down yesterday. That has really caused a raucous here. Tons of stranded people, and the alternative flights out of Laos to Hanoi and Kuala Lampur are packed.

Sunday, November 16, 2008

That Luang Festival

Last Wednesday (the November full moon) was the culmination of the That Luang Festival here in Vientiane. Pha That Luang is the most important national monument in Laos. The golden stupa is a symbol of both the Buddhist religion and Lao sovereignty (according to Lonely Planet).

All I really know about the festival is that thousands of monks come from all over Laos to be here (it is jolly to see all the bright orange robes about town), but the trade fair definitely outshines the religious element of the event. Early Wednesday morning, monks lined up to collect alms from locals, and there was an afternoon hockey/polo game staged in the street between "the man" and "the people." However, I didn't see any of this because I couldn't handle the throbbing crowds of people.

I did go in the evening to peruse the trade fair (still throbbing with crowds of people), check out the CARE co-sponsored avian influenza booth, and visit more nuns. I had never known of Lao Buddhist nuns until this event. Women who have no family, are disabled, or unable to care for themselves may become nuns and live inside the monastery. Asian grandmamas are so cute! I collected several more good luck bracelets from these nuns.


Healthy Poultry, Healthy People! The AI booth was co-sponsored by CARE International, AusAID, AED, and sorry my eyesight is bad so I can't read the other logos. But the central Lao body that this all supports is NAHICO, the National Avian Human Influenza Coordinating Office.

As you can see, the booth was replete with all sorts of AI awareness materials, including posters, Tshirts, demonstration booths for handwashing and proper chicken cooking habits (CARE Lao staff did the cooking!), coloring for the kids (a relatively new concept here), and dramatic renderings of handwashing (in song) and what to do when your bird dies.



And now introducing Super Kai!!
(exhibiting the superb chicken butt above)
Look at those strong arms! Now I am no longer afraid of avian influenza.
Here I am with CARE Lao staff, Not, Monica, and Noi.

More photos of the festival. No, the stupa is not on fire. Those are just the fireworks!

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Lao Wedding Bells

Vieng sweetly invited me to her high school friend's wedding and lent me the Lao outfits for the occasion.

Here are photos from throughout the day, starting with the ceremonies in the morning at the bride's home, and ending with evening festivities at a hotel. No cheesy wedding tricks. Just speeches (short!), food, drinks, and dancing!

Sunday, October 26, 2008

COPE Laos

COPE (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise) is a joint venture between the Lao Ministry of Health and NGOs to support the development of prosthetic, orthotic and rehabilitation services for Lao people with disabilities. COPE is the only provider of these devices in Laos, which is significant considering that Laos is the most heavily bombed country per capita in the world (from the Vietnam War). Many bombs did not detonate, and today UXO (unexploded ordnance) litters the countryside and remains a threat to the lives and livelihoods of the Lao people.

Last night was COPE's 2nd annual fundraising concert at the National Rehabilitation Center. I must return during the day to check out the visitor center. The event was huge (by Vientiane standards) and brought out lots of falang, mainly Kiwis, Aussies, and Germans from what I could tell. With five bands, both Lao and falang, as well as DJ Pierre's dance mix to finish off the night, it was a pretty grooving time (Klusterfunk, falang band below).



They also brought on stage Laos' first-ever paralympic medalist to speak to the crowd. Simay Eay was Laos' only paralympian at the 2008 games, and he won bronze in the men's powerlifting event. Go team!

On an unrelated note, Laos doesn't have a DUI law. Good to have some PSA's (e.g., above) indicating that "Drink + Driving = Accident," but apparently, most of the DUI accidents are caused by falang, perhaps not so surprisingly.

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Do I Look Lao to You?

An Asian face with a Lao sinh, but with distinctly un-Lao manners. Confusion sets in.

I'm not sure what all goes through the heads of the Lao around me, but so far, people have guessed that I'm Lao, half-Lao, or Japanese. Recently when I traveled with the Kiwi and Germans down south, our boat driver observed that they had "American nose," and I have "Japanese nose."

Mostly, I just walk/bike around oblivious to any looks or non-looks, but my friend Dave, for one, wishes I would pipe up a bit more because apparently when he walks with me while I'm wearing a sinh, either I get double-takes or he gets dirty looks from the Lao -- since it's illegal for foreigners to have intimate relations with Lao nationals...not that we're doing anything other than walking down the street.

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

End of Buddhist Lent

Today is Boun Ok Phansaa, the final and most important day of Buddhist Lent that also marks the end of rainy season. Several activities surrounding the neighborhood wat, or temple, mark the occasion.



Vieng let me accompany her and her brother to their neighborhood wat where the morning started at 7am with prayers and almsgiving. Families sat in rows across the wat floor with their offerings of money, sweets, sticky rice, candles/incense, and lotus/orchid flowers. We lit candles as the monks chanted in the ancient Buddhist language, and at the end, each worshipper poured water in prayer to offer as a symbolic cleansing drink.

Once prayers were finished, the monks wound their way through the rows of worshippers to collect alms. I was free to walk around and take photos once this started, but I had to be very careful not to step over or touch anyone or their offerings with my feet in passing, which ended up being quite a challenge! When the monks came around, I helped give each monk a sweet, making sure not to touch any part of the pot since women must not touch the monks. Once we exited the wat, Vieng used the water from the prayers for the wat's plants, and then we offered our respects at her ancestors' grave.

Several children (some homeless; others just neighborhood kids) were hanging about and grabbing the sweets and money straight from the graves, offering bins, and statues. True, the monks not only survive on alms, but also share them with the homeless. But these children were being rather disrespectful by grabbing the alms before worshippers had even left. Vieng scolded them, but they didn't seem put off.

Here's something interesting about monks: there are two types, those that make it their lives' work and those who do it only for a short time to earn respect and karmic points for their families and ancestors. The latter tend to be young men before marriage, after which they become impure and un-monkable. Many teenagers will do it during the summer holiday like a summer job, but they must do so out of their own will for the "earnings" to count.



In the evening, I went with a group from the U.S. Embassy to a wat to float gatong (candles/incense made of banana leaves in the shape of a lotus) down the Mekong River to cleanse ourselves of sin and bring good spirits. This nice monk had great English and was able to read my fortune for me after I had picked a numbered stick matching my fortune on a slip of paper. Number 11: good fortune. Bingo! He also tied this bracelet for me to wish me longetivity and good health.

So, according to my fortune, I'll have no injury while I'm here; everyone will be happy; my parents will be proud of me; and I will move from Laos eventually. OK, now that I'm surrounded by this karmic force field, let's move on to the debauchery of Boat Racing Festival for tomorrow!


Thursday, July 17, 2008

Beginning to Learn Lao

I really want to make an effort to understand and converse in Lao, so I've been searching for a Lao tutor all over DC. The embassy was a surprisingly disappointing resource, but I finally was able to reach a former president of the Lao American Women Association today who has offered to tutor me personally. And it's perfect because she actually works right across the street from me, and so we can meet during lunch.

I've perused books (not too many options out there), but I really want a "native speaker" (a la JET!) to help me get the tones right. With six tones and that snakelike script, I'm going to need some handholding to get me started. But to help myself along as I advance, I just ordered these books off Amazon. Will let you know how useful they are!