Communism and Capitalism Are Mixing in Laos

The New York Times
By Thomas Fuller
September 17, 2009

VIENTIANE, Laos — Hammer-and-sickle flags flutter above government offices in downtown Vientiane, and the entrance to the national museum is decorated with massive sculptures glorifying the workers’ revolutionary struggle.

Officially, this sparsely populated country is still communist — and has been since 1975. But these days, that really depends on whom you ask.

See http://www.nytimes.com/2009/09/18/world/asia/18laos.html for full story.

A Lao Christmas

25 December is just another day in Laos. But for expat offices, like CARE and the U.S. Embassy, Christmas is a free day. WOohoo! However, I spent the better part of today working on the protocol, but the good news is...I FINISHED IT!! I am absolutely ecstatic. I've been the picture of stress for the past month, and today on the way to drinks by the Mekong was the first time in a looooong while that I could bike along and enjoy the scenery of Laos. Nice.

I met up with Hannah and Irwin, and two of Hannah's new French rock climbing buddies whom I'll call Lili and Bertie (since we're having trouble saying their names). A nice chilled out time by the river, Kopjay Deu, and Jazzy Brick.

Tomorrow morning I'm heading with my little brother Peexiong to his hometown of Kilometer 52 in Vientiane Province for Hmong New Year. I'll stay at Peexiong's house, and his mom will find a traditional Hmong dress for me to wear. I look forward to seeing all the customs, rituals, and celebrations. It's supposed to be a time for courting among the young folk as well...something about throwing a ball around to each other.

So we're off to a healthy holiday season start. And on behalf of everyone in Laos and my favorite young gentlemen from Parkview, I wish everyone a very merry Christmas and safe, warm holiday season among family and friends!!

Last Day at CARE

But doesn't mean last day of WORK! CARE Lao is virtually on holiday for the rest of the year, and so...so am I! Today was my last official day sitting at CARE, but it was rather anticlimactic since I've been caught under the weight of an insomniatic cough and confusing sampling statistics. Last night's cold medicine didn't wear off till 4pm today, so today was a bit of a blur.

We did eat a special lunch to celebrate the holiday as well as my farewell. And the AI team got me a beautiful handwoven scarf (presented by Mel above). I even got a wedding invitation from one of the Lao staff, but I probably won't be able to go. Sad. And I myself presented CARE with a number of "presents," not to be read "castaways." The AI team was happy to accept my motorbike helmet, and by the end of the day, it had been adopted into the inventory family (note black sticker!).

My Daily Commute

Here are some images of my daily commute to work.

The sight of this lady this morning totally made my day.

Yes, those are chickens tied upside down in those baskets.

A few other sights along my commute to work. This is Wat Si Saket. I'm getting better at these driveby shots.

This is Patuxai which sits in the middle of a massive rotary. The CARE Lao office sits at the complete opposite end from where I come. The serenity pictured here belies the crazy traffic I have to dodge each morning around this thing!

Bon Voyage, Anais!

Anais left Laos today via Hanoi to return to Oregon. She was here for a 3-month stint at WHO working on reproductive and women's health. Other than being super cool, she also sang in a band here! Last Saturday was her send-off party with a jam session.

Dark photos (L-R): David playing along with traditional instruments in the background; Anais & Jessie; the rest of the band grooving with the fish.

Happy Turkey Day!

Maybe not so surprisingly, I had a more "American" Thanksgiving here in Laos than I often have back at home in the U.S. Ambassador and Mrs. Huso had a quaint dinner party for about 40-50 on their spacious front patio. Guests were mainly folks who work at the embassy and also a group of old friends and visitors from the Husos' native Hawaii.

The ambassador's residence, like most official residences here, is set in the French colonial style. Since it was my first time really spending time within an American presence abroad, I had never heard of the ART in Embassies Program. The new ambassador starting his/her tenure may choose from a collection of American art to exhibit in the residence to share a bit of American culture with guests. The Husos' collection features all Hawaiian artists.

Here is the painting Luana (Giclee print) by Pegge Hopper flanked by Pair of Whiskey Jugs (glass) by Mark Mitsuda who was the Husos' daughter's art teacher.

We had turkey and all the trimmings, plus sweet hibiscus tea. Dave was my +1, and I guess like attracts like because our dinner table became the "health" table with, among the Hawaiian visitors, a Japanese-American pediatrician, a Vietnamese-American biochemist/public health person who leads medical missions to Southeast Asia, and a fellow who had worked with the Hawaii health department.

The Hawaiian visitors were all en-route from the East-West Center alumni function in Bali, but got stranded here because the Thailand airport closed down yesterday. That has really caused a raucous here. Tons of stranded people, and the alternative flights out of Laos to Hanoi and Kuala Lampur are packed.

That Luang Festival

Last Wednesday (the November full moon) was the culmination of the That Luang Festival here in Vientiane. Pha That Luang is the most important national monument in Laos. The golden stupa is a symbol of both the Buddhist religion and Lao sovereignty (according to Lonely Planet).

All I really know about the festival is that thousands of monks come from all over Laos to be here (it is jolly to see all the bright orange robes about town), but the trade fair definitely outshines the religious element of the event. Early Wednesday morning, monks lined up to collect alms from locals, and there was an afternoon hockey/polo game staged in the street between "the man" and "the people." However, I didn't see any of this because I couldn't handle the throbbing crowds of people.

I did go in the evening to peruse the trade fair (still throbbing with crowds of people), check out the CARE co-sponsored avian influenza booth, and visit more nuns. I had never known of Lao Buddhist nuns until this event. Women who have no family, are disabled, or unable to care for themselves may become nuns and live inside the monastery. Asian grandmamas are so cute! I collected several more good luck bracelets from these nuns.

Healthy Poultry, Healthy People! The AI booth was co-sponsored by CARE International, AusAID, AED, and sorry my eyesight is bad so I can't read the other logos. But the central Lao body that this all supports is NAHICO, the National Avian Human Influenza Coordinating Office.

As you can see, the booth was replete with all sorts of AI awareness materials, including posters, Tshirts, demonstration booths for handwashing and proper chicken cooking habits (CARE Lao staff did the cooking!), coloring for the kids (a relatively new concept here), and dramatic renderings of handwashing (in song) and what to do when your bird dies.

And now introducing Super Kai!!

(exhibiting the superb chicken butt above)

Look at those strong arms! Now I am no longer afraid of avian influenza.

Here I am with CARE Lao staff, Not, Monica, and Noi.

More photos of the festival. No, the stupa is not on fire. Those are just the fireworks!

Gimme a "change!" ...CHANGE!

The world was watching on Tuesday, still is watching today, and will be watching for weeks to come. So many people congratulated me today on the results of the U.S. presidential elections. I've never considered the word "congratulations" for myself for an election, but I guess congratulations are in order for the U.S. and for the world.

There weren't many election viewing parties here in Vientiane, but I did manage to get onto the guest list to morning coffee election viewing at the U.S. Ambassador's residence. Arrived a bit too late and missed all the buildup, but no worries, there would be more celebrations to come.



After work, I had a little trouble finding other Americans to celebrate with, but when we did find each other, we were like giddy schoolchildren. After drinks at Sticky's, where Anais, new friend Jessa, and I explained the electoral college to the Germans, Aussies, Brits, and Kiwis sitting around the table, Dave caught up with us, and the four of us headed off in the dark to find the Democrats Abroad house party in the rice paddies. Peddling about on our bicycles, we chanted,

Change! Change! Yes, we can! Yes, we can!

Unfortunately, by the time we found the house around 10pm, the party was over! And it was starting to rain...and downpour. And me in my nice new sinh too...boo. Rainy season was supposed to have ended a month ago, and it's unseasonably warm right now. Go, go, global warming! We quickly found cover under a shop awning, but booked it once the rain settled up a bit. Anais was so prepared with her umbrella.

We would not be deterred from celebrating, and so gathered at Jessa's place for drinks... various bubbly waters and juice, accompanied by talk late into the night.

P.S. I was having lunch with two new friends from Argentina and Laos, and they mused that the rest of the world is so affected by American policies that they should be able to vote for the U.S. president too! They'd happily make up the other ~40% of the U.S. population that isn't voting! Along the same vein, here's an interesting Electoral Map of the World, if the world could vote.