The guard recommended that I take my bike with me for an extra 20,000 kip because it'd be cheaper than renting a bike there. So they strapped my bike to the top of the bus (though I'd question the judgment later), and we were off.
I got into Vang Vieng right before noon and rode my bike 4km north to Phoudindaeng Village to check into my room at the Organic Mulberry Farm. The farm is right on the banks of the Nam Song and is also the starting point for the famous Vang Vieng tubing, hence all the songthaews passing me up along the way carrying loads of half-naked, half-baked falang and big black tubes.
The farm's restaurant has a modest, but nice menu of organic, vegetarian dishes. Above is lunch of Harvest Curry with tofu, accompanied by iced mulberry green tea. Afterwards, I rode my bike back into town to figure out something to do for the afternoon.
When I randomly stepped into Riverside Tours, the very genki man at the desk practically jumped out of his seat with, "Let's go kayaking now! I'll take you myself!" They had just delivered a large group upriver, and we could still catch up with them. Hey, why not? So Phanh brought me upriver...back to the farm where the tubing begins.
And I thought I was getting away from the falang debauchery by staying north of Vang Vieng at the farm. Was I ever wrong! The farm keeps a mojito bar right at the launch site, granted to raise money for children, but the music would never stop blasting!
Within sight was the first "stop" of the tubing/kayaking journey down the river: a giant swing river plunge contraption, replete with an island bar, thumping music, and tons and tons of falang. There are about five such bars along the route down the river, with the first ones being the loudest and crowdiest.
Ugh, this isn't what Laos is supposed to be about! Phanh brought me to a more bearable one with fewer people while we waited for the rest of the group to catch up with us. Phanh got some Beer Lao and jumped from the big swing. I didn't have much faith in any of these operations, but after watching enough turns, it seemed fine enough, so I took a go with the slide. Plus, Phanh was watching out for me to make sure all conditions were safe.
Below: Phanh flying; me getting ready to go; my splash (Phanh wasn't fast enough!)
Continuing along the Nam Song by kayak. So glad I wasn't tubing... All those people stuck without a current after 3 hours. What a bore! I'm sure it's somewhat enjoyable with friends...
The next morning I decided to get away from it all by visiting the famous limestone karsts and caves on the other side of the Nam Song. Tham Phu Kham 6km out is hugely popular because of the blue lagoon. At this point, I really wished I had rented a motorbike. The rocky, dusty roads and high noon sun wore on my bicycle or body, but at least I got a lot of exercise and a tan!
(More photos to come)
I eventually found the blue lagoon after about an hour of weaving around rocks, but the only people there were two French guys smoking some questionable herbs. It wasn't till after they'd left and I was able to look around a bit that I was convinced that it was the right place. Just as I was told...the blue water, little fish, rope jump. I'm pretty sure the cave itself was another kilometer's ride farther up the road, but I was content at that point to just have the blue lagoon all to myself. Strange that no one else was there on a sunny Sunday afternoon...
(More photos to come...internet is sloooow!!)
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